At midnight on Thursday, I lay on my back in Rome's Colosseum and looked at a pageant of stars above. Where the lions tore into gladiators and only a few metres from the cross marking the place of Saint Paul's crucifixion - "martyrdom", of course, has become an uneasy word in this age of the suicide bomber ? I could only reflect on how what was once a centre of cruelty could become one of the greatest tourist attractions of our time.

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